Eixample, Barcelona guide

Architect Antoni Gaudí left his mark all over this city, but nowhere more so than in Eixample. People line up for hours to see his wild — and still unfinished — Sagrada Família, a psychedelic take on a gothic basilica. Casa Batlló’s roof of undulating scales makes it look like some kind of ancient dinosaur. And the ‘masked chimneys’ on top of La Pedrera Casa Milà beg to be Instagrammed.

Gaudí wasn’t the only architect working in Eixample. Josep Puig i Cadafalch designed the playful Casa Amatller. Known in English as ‘house of spikes’, the towering Casa de les Punxes was named for the needle-like spires atop its fairytale turrets. At Casa Lleó i Morera, Lluís Domènech i Montaner created a masterpiece of ornately carved balconies, colourful mosaics and stained glass.

Eixample (pronounced ‘Ey-sham-pluh’) is nicknamed Gaixample because it’s always been a big part of Barcelona’s thriving LGBTQ+ scene. In the streets just behind the University of Barcelona, you’ll find a slew of LGBTQ-friendly bars, clubs, shops, hotels and restaurants, not to mention many locals flying the pride flag from their balconies.

Museums in Eixample are a feast for the eyes — and at the Perfume Museum, also the nose. Don’t miss Sant Pau, the world’s largest complex of Art Nouveau buildings, or the Fundació Antoni Tàpies, which has a notable collection of modern and contemporary art. The Museum of Forbidden Art exhibits works that others have censored.

Take the kids to the White Rabbit Museum, which has VR exhibits about Catalan culture, infinity rooms and artworks you can touch, climb and dance with. Parc de Joan Miró is a serene green space at the edge of the district featuring a colourful abstract sculpture called Woman and Bird by the famous Catalan artist for whom the park is named.

The Zurich Barcelona Marathon takes runners past Eixample’s stunning buildings every March, and Barcelona Pride is a big deal in July. The Barcelona Modernist Fair happens in Dreta de l'Eixample each spring in conjunction with that neighbourhood's Festa Major. Eixample also participates in citywide festivals like the Festa de Sant Jordi (April) and La Mercè (September).

The best restaurants in Eixample range from tasting menus at five-star hotels to classic Catalan bistros to hotspots serving ramen, dumplings and other international fare. Locals love Enric Granados, a pedestrian-friendly boulevard lined with trendy brunch spots, eateries, bars and cafes. The historic Sant Antoni market, restored in 2018, is worth a stop too.

Passeig de Gràcia is the retail centre of Barcelona, home to luxury boutiques from Gucci and Chanel and an outpost of the storied Spanish department store El Corte Inglés. Smaller shops can be found along the Rambla de Catalunya, which runs parallel. For a uniquely Spanish mall experience, visit Las Arenas, housed in a former bullfighting ring.

Eixample is a good place to taste what’s brewing in Barcelona’s beer scene. Stop by the old Estrella Damm brewery for a pint. Or find a cluster of newer craft breweries near the intersection of Consell de Cent and Carrer de Muntaner. Streets like Carrer d'Aribau have tons of nightlife options, from dance clubs and ‘chupiterias’ (shot bars) to upscale cocktail lounges.