Tempelhof - Schöneberg, Berlin guide

The decommissioned airfield at Tempelhofer Feld is now a vast urban park. On sunny days, you’ll see locals rollerblading, unicycling or kitesurfing down the runway. Ride an e-bike, picnic in the shade of a Cold War plane, or tour the Nazi-era terminal. And when you’re ready for a break, kick back at the classic ‘biergarten’ (beer garden).

Berlin’s famed street art finds an indoor home at the Urban Nation Museum for Urban and Contemporary Art. Take in the thought-provoking collection, then hone your skills in workshops ranging from graffiti writing to sticker design. Like much of the street art in the neighbourhood, the museum is free to enjoy — though donations are happily accepted.

The marina at Tempelhofer Hafen puts you in the middle of the Teltow Canal. Hire a pleasure boat to explore Berlin’s vast network of waterways. Rather stick to dry land? Nature park Schöneberger Südgelände is a rail yard overtaken by greenery, with train tracks doubling as walking trails for your urban exploration.

Batman, David Bowie and flying pigs are just some of the sights you could spot at the Festival of Giant Kites. Taking place at Tempelhofer Feld, the September event attracts kite-flying champions from all over the world. Berlin’s children’s parks are somewhat famous for their elaborate themes. In Schöneberg, find parks designed to resemble the Wild West and a witch’s lair.

Discover local history in the museums in Tempelhof-Schöneberg. Tucked into an old schoolhouse, the Tempelhof Museum documents the history of the borough. The SA Prison Papestraße tells a darker and more recent history of the first people imprisoned by the Nazi regime. And the Schöneberg Museum is a family-friendly exploration of Berlin culture.

One of the largest LGBTQ+ events in Europe, Schöneberg’s Lesbian and Gay City Festival is a colourful street party that takes over Nollendorfplatz every July. In October, you can show off your carving skills at the Schöneberg Pumpkin Festival. More than 10,000 pumpkins are transformed into works of art and used to make everything from lasagne to macaroons.

Some of the best restaurants in Tempelhof-Schöneberg surround the leafy square at Winterfeldtplatz. Many are popular LGBTQ+ hangouts, and the food tends to be as diverse as the clientele. You’ll find a steady mix of saucy Italian joints as well as solid Asian and Middle Eastern options. If you have a hankering for crunchy falafel or Thai papaya salad, you’re in safe hands.

Nollendorfplatz in Schöneberg has been the epicentre of LGBTQ+ nightlife since the 1920s when Golden Era goddess Marlene Dietrich was on the scene. The free spirit is alive and well at drag shows and gay bars where locals and visitors mix. Come experience everything from wild theme parties to all-night disco jams.

You’ll find KaDeWe, Germany’s best-known department store, in Tempelhof-Schöneberg. And Kurfürstendamm, Berlin’s answer to the Champs-Élysées, is only a few blocks away in neighbouring Charlottenburg. Located in a leafy square, the Winterfeldt Markt is the biggest weekly market in Berlin, specialising in gourmet food and produce across more than 250 stalls.