Testaccio, Rome guide

The Testaccio Market is the neighbourhood’s unofficial town square — a place where Roman grandmothers and college students alike meet up to shop, gossip and eat. Visit the sprawling, glass-ceilinged venue Monday through Saturday to shop for fresh produce, meat and fish. Not cooking? Queue at one of the food stalls for ‘piadina’ (flatbread sandwiches), pizza and more.

From the late 1800s until the 1970s, Testaccio was Rome’s slaughterhouse district. So it’s fitting that a former abattoir is now the hub of the area’s art scene. Pay a visit to the Mattatoio, whose complex of industrial 19th-century buildings shows off contemporary works and live performances. For more art appreciation, head to Via Galvani to see the 30-metre-tall street mural of a jumping wolf.

Rome’s Non-Catholic Cemetery is a burial ground for Italians of various faiths, along with foreign artists, writers and philosophers. It also happens to be a peaceful refuge for visitors. Under the shade of cypress trees, walk the impeccably landscaped grounds, taking in the Renaissance sculptures and visiting the tombstones of poets John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley.

The Città dell’Altra Economia (City of Alternative Economy) may not sound like a kid’s paradise. But this venue devoted to fair trade and sustainability hosts family-friendly markets, art events and musical performances year-round. Budding archaeologists shouldn’t miss Monte Testaccio, a hillside made of shards of antique clay pots that once contained olive oil.

There aren’t any major museums in Testaccio, but the district does boast one of Rome’s most breathtaking landmarks. The Pyramid of Caius Cestius is a 36-metre-tall marble pyramid that was built between 18 and 12 BC to be a tomb for a magistrate. Book ahead for a tour of its interior frescoes. Next door, check out the Porta San Paolo, part of the ancient Aurelian Walls.

Testaccio’s history as a slaughterhouse district helped shape its food scene. For years, local chefs were forced to come up with creative ways to cook different cuts of meat. The best restaurants in Testaccio continue that legacy with meat- and offal-centric menus. But vegetarians will be happy to know the neighbourhood is also famous for its ‘cacio e pepe’ (traditional cheese and pepper pasta).

Hip-hop or house, salsa or swing — whatever beat you’re feeling on a given night, there’s a club for it in Testaccio. The area is famous for the dance clubs along Via di Monte Testaccio, some of which are built right into the hill of ancient pottery. If your preferences lean more towards the classical, take in a theatrical performance at the Teatro Vittoria.

Small clothing and homeware boutiques make Testaccio the place to shop for a special ceramic bowl, piece of jewellery or other unique item. Trendy shops are clustered around the Mattatoio as well as the neighbourhood’s main plaza, Piazza Testaccio. There’s also a bunch of clothing, shoe and homeware vendors along the eastern side of Testaccio Market.

The ‘festa patronale’ in late May and early June celebrates Testaccio’s patron saint, Santa Maria Liberatrice. Expect a full range of traditional Italian experiences. They include a mass amid the mosaics of the saint’s namesake church, a solemn procession with an effigy of the Madonna, live music and parties in the piazza.