Trastevere, Rome guide

Start your day in this neighbourhood’s lively core, Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere. Sit on the steps around the medieval fountain to watch the street musicians, then duck into the Basilica di Santa Maria that presides over the plaza. The 12th-century church dedicated to the Virgin Mary features an intricately carved ceiling and shimmering mosaics by Pietro Cavallini.

Take in Rome from above at Janiculum Hill. You’ll find several walking routes from Trastevere. Some are winding, others are steep climbs, but they all pay off with a panoramic view over the rooftops and the dome of St Peter’s. Go to the large terrace for the best view. And visit in time to catch the blank cannon shot at noon.

One of Italy’s oldest botanical gardens, Orto Botanico feels a world away from the rest of Rome. Besides its manicured herb gardens, it’s also home to a bamboo forest, a traditional Japanese landscape and a tropical plant greenhouse. Don’t miss the rose garden in spring, rhododendrons in late summer and maple trees in autumn.

A family trip to Trastevere means enjoying the simple pleasures — pizza, gelato and watching your kids kick a football around the piazza. Monday to Saturday, have a family food adventure at Piazza di San Cosimato’s market. On weekends, take in a puppet show at the open-air theatre that’s been operating at the top of Janiculum Hill since the 1950s.

The spectacular but lesser-known museums in Trastevere let you spend more time appreciating Renaissance art and less time standing in line. The 16th-century palace Villa Farnesina features floor-to-ceiling frescoes of Roman gods by masters like Raphael and Il Sodoma. Just along the street, find the Galleria Corsini, a small museum packed with a mighty slice of Italy’s national art collection, including Caravaggio’s ‘John the Baptist’.

Rome’s legendary restaurant scene is even more concentrated in Trastevere. The neighbourhood is filled with budget-friendly pizzerias, welcoming trattorias and upscale dining rooms with epic wine lists. But don’t wait until you’re starving to find a table. The best restaurants in Trastevere often have lines or require reservations. Avoid those with hosts aggressively flagging tourists to come inside.

As the sun goes down, both locals and tourists converge on Trastevere for its world-class nightlife. From early evening until very early morning, crowds cascade onto the streets from wine bars, pubs and cocktail joints. The best spots are clustered around the neighbourhood’s piazzas. But you’ll find somewhere for an aperitif or a nightcap down almost any alley.

Travestere’s independent spirit shines through to its shopping scene, a collection of small boutiques, bookstores and vintage clothing shops. Pick up a souvenir with character, whether a well-loved handbag or a vintage movie poster. Two of the main shopping arteries are Via di San Francesco a Ripa and Via Della Scala, though stores are sprinkled throughout the area.

The Festa de’ Noantri has been going strong since the 16th century. The July celebration starts with a procession of an ornate statue of Madonna del Carmine, the neighbourhood’s patron saint, and continues with a week of traditional musical and theatrical performances. It’s the pride of Trastevere — ‘noantri’ translates to ‘the rest of us’, marking the area’s distinction from the rest of Rome.